Wednesday, June 3, 2015

1928 cell phone - Possible Explanation

Mystery resolved

Charles E. Alden

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Charles E. Alden
A picture of Alden on the April 29, 1906 issue of the New York World
Nationality	American
Occupation	Inventor, Sculptor
Known for	The invention of the "vest pocket telephone" in 1906

COTTAGE CITY, Mass. April 28 [1906]. "Charles E. Alden of New York has been pursuing experiments here since last fall in wireless telephoning. Has, he says, solved the problem of wireless telephoning and the result is so simple that is likely to create a sensation in the business world as well as in scientific circles."

—New York World, April 29, 1906

Charles E. Alden (Floruit, FL 1906) was an obscure inventor mentioned in a 1906 edition of the New York World who was claimed to have created the idea of a vest pocket telephone, a device that was the precursor of the cell phone. An article entitled: “Ingenious Yankee Invents Simple Telephone System” appeared in the May 24, 1907 edition of L’Abeille de la Nouvelle-Orléans–a New Orleans newspaper. He envisioned the idea in 1906, sixty-seven years before the first hand-held mobile phone was demonstrated by Dr Martin Cooper of Motorola in 1973.^[1]^[2]^[3] In 1907, Alden invented and tested a wireless, remote controlled boat off the coast of Martha's Vineyard. This boat was said to have “lifted its own anchor, blows its own whistle, signals, fires a gun and steers” all while the operator is controlling it on shore.^[4]

References[edit]

Jump up^ "TELEPHONE FOR YOUR VEST POCKET - Pilfers Messages from Wires Three Miles Off—is of the Wireless Variety" — New York World, April 29, 1906
Jump up^ The Christian Work and the Evangelist, Volume 80. 1906.
Jump up^ "Invents a telephone to be carried in pocket" ( May 21, 1906) Los Angeles Herald, Page 7, Columns 4-5. Article dated the previous day. Scanned by the University of California, Riverside. Preserved on the Internet by the Library of Congress.
Jump up^ Illustrated World. Retrieved November 16, 2012.

Civilization on the Moon

Japan offers proof of Civilization on Moon

Man Invents Pocket Telephone in 1906. Inventor/Visionary predicts future over 100 years ago.

Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Emily Ratajkowski Intimates | Sports Illustrated Swimsuit 2015

Understanding Routers, Switches, and Network Hardware

HTG Explains: Understanding Routers, Switches, and Network Hardware

Today we’re taking a look at the home networking hardware: what the individual pieces do, when you need them, and how best to deploy them. Read on to get a clearer picture of what you need to optimize your home network.

When do you need a switch? A hub? What exactly does a router do? Do you need a router if you have a single computer? Network technology can be quite an arcane area of study but armed with the right terms and a general overview of how devices function on your home network you can deploy your network with confidence.

Understanding Home Networking Through Network Diagrams

Rather than start off with a glossary of networking terms—and in the process slam you with a technical terms with no easy point of reference—let’s dive right into looking at network diagrams. Here is the simplest network configuration available: a computer linked directly to a modem which is in turn linked through a phone line/cable/fiber optic uplink to the individual’s internet service provider.

It doesn’t get less complicated than this arrangement but there is a price to pay for the ultra-simplicity of the setup. This user cannot access the internet with a Wi-Fi device (thus no access for smart phones, tablets, or other wireless devices) and they lose out on the benefits of having a router between their computer and the greater internet. Let’s introduce a router and highlight the benefits of using one. In the diagram below we’ve introduced two elements to the network: a wireless router and a laptop connecting to the network via that wireless connection.

When should you use a router? Given the low cost of home routers and the benefits gained from installing one on your network you should always use a router (which almost always includes a firewall feature).

Home routers are actually a a combination of three networking components: a router, a firewall, and a switch. In a commercial setting the three pieces of hardware are kept separate but consumer routers are almost always a combination of both the routing and switching components with a firewall added in for good measure. First let’s look at what the router function does.

At the most basic level a router links two networks together, the network within your home (however big or small) and the network outside your home (in this case, the Internet). The broadband modem provided to you by your ISP is only suited to linking a single computer to the internet and usually does not include any sort of routing or switch functionality. A router performs the following functions:

IP sharing: Your ISP assigns you one IP address. If you have a desktop, a laptop, a media box on your TV, and an iPad, that one IP address clearly isn’t going to cut it. A router manages those multiple connections and ensures that the right packets of information go to the right places. Without this function there would be no way for a person on the desktop and a person on the laptop to both browse the web as there would be no distinguishing between which computer was requesting what.
Network Address Translation (NAT): Related to the IP sharing function, NAT modifies the headers in packets of information coming into and out of your network so that they get routed to the proper device. Think of NAT like a very helpful receptionist inside your router that knows exactly where every incoming/outgoing package should go and stamps the department on them accordingly.
Dynamic Host Configuration: Without DHCP you would have to manually configure and add all the hosts to your network. This means every time a new computer entered the network you would have to manually assign it an address on the network. DHCP does that for you automatically so that when you plug your XBOX into your router, your friend gets on your wireless network, or you add a new computer, an address is assigned with no human interaction required.
Firewall: Routers act as basic firewalls in a variety of ways including automatically rejecting incoming data that is not part of an ongoing exchange between a computer within your network and the outside world. If you request a music stream from Pandora, for example, your router says, “We’re expecting you, come on in” and that stream of data is directed to the device that made the request. On the other hand, if a sudden burst of port probing comes in from an unknown address your router acts as a bouncer and rejects the requests, effectively cloaking your computers. Even for a user with a single computer a simple $50 router is worth it for the firewall functionality alone.

In addition to the inside-to-outside network functionality outlined above, home routers also act as a network switch. A network switch is a piece of hardware that facilitates communication between computers on an internal network. Without the switching function the devices could talk through the router to the greater internet but not to each other—something as simple as copying an MP3 from your laptop to your desktop over the network would be impossible.

Most routers have four Ethernet ports which allow you to plug in four devices and have them communicate via the switch function. If you need more than four Ethernet connections you’ll need to upgrade to a router with a larger port bank (a rather expensive proposition that will usually only boost you up to eight ports) or you can pick up a dedicated switch. Note: You only need to upgrade if you’re running out of physical ports for hard line connections. If you only have one computer and one networked printer plugged into your four-port router (and everything else on your network is Wi-Fi based) there is no need to upgrade to gain physical ports. That said, let’s take a look at a network with a dedicated switch.

Although the four-port limit on the super majority of home routers was more than enough for most home users, the last 10 years have brought a significant increase in the number of networkable devices within the home. It isn’t uncommon to have multiple computers, multiple game consoles, media centers, printers, file servers, and more that all connect to the Ethernet LAN (while you may get away with putting your Wii on the Wi-Fi network for things like dedicated video streaming and media server access it is much preferable to have a hard line connection). Once you’ve reached that level of device saturation it’s necessary to add in a switch with eight, 16, or more ports to properly support your growing home network.

As a side note, historically people often relied on hubs because they were so much cheaper than pricey switches. A hub is a a simple network device that does not examine or manage any of the traffic that comes through it—it’s a “dumb” network device—by contrast switches actually interact with the data packets and actively direct them. Because hubs have no management component there are frequent collisions between packets which leads to an overall decrease in performance. Hubs suffer from a number of technical shortcomings which you can read about here. Consumer grade networks switches have fallen in price so steeply over the last 10 years that very few hubs are even manufactured anymore (Netgear, one of the largest manufacturers of consumer hubs, no longer even makes them). Because of the shortcomings of network hubs and the low prices of quality consumer-grade network switches we cannot recommend using a hub. When you can pick up a perfectly good high-speed 8-port switch for $25 there’s no good reason to use an outdated hub on a home network—if you’re curious why a network admin would ever deploy a hub you can read about it here.

Returning to the topic of switches: switches are an excellent and inexpensive way to increase the size of your home network. If you outgrow the bank of four ports on the back of your router the simplest thing you can do to expand your network is to purchase a switch with an appropriate number of ports. Unplug the devices from your router, plug all the devices into the switch, and then plug the switch into the router. Note: switches have absolutely no routing functionality and cannot take the place of a router. Your router likely has a four-port switch built into it but that does not mean your new eight-port dedicated switch can replace your router—you still need the router to mediate between your modem and switch.

Decoding Network Speed Designations

Now that you’ve got a clear picture of how exactly your network should be physically configured let’s talk about network speeds. There are two primary designations we are interested in: Ethernet and Wi-Fi. Let’s take a look at Ethernet first.

Ethernet connection speeds are designated in 10BASE. The original Ethernet protocol, now 30 years old, operated as a max speed of 10 Mbit/s. Fast Ethernet, introduced in 1995, upped the speed to 100 Mbit/s. Gigabit Ethernet was introduced shortly after that in 1998 but didn’t gain much traction in the consumer market until recently. As its name suggests, Gigabit Ethernet is capable of 1000 Mbit/s. You will commonly see these designations noted on networking gear and its packaging as 10/100 or 10/100/1000 indicating which Ethernet version the device is compatible with.

In order to take full advantage of the maximum speeds all the devices in the transfer chain need to be at or above the speed rating you want. For example, let’s say you have a media server in your basement with a Gigabit Ethernet card installed and a media console in your living room with a Gigabit Ethernet card but you are connecting the two together with a 10/100 switch. Both devices will be limited by the 100 Mbit/s ceiling on the switch. In this situation upgrading the switch would boost your network performance considerably.

Outside of transferring large files and streaming HD video content across your home network there is little need to go out and upgrade all your equipment to Gigabit. If your primary computer network usage involves browsing the web and light file transfers 10/100 is more than satisfactory.

Understanding Wi-Fi Speeds

Wi-Fi speeds are designated by letter, not by number. Unlike the easy to translate number-as-network-speed designation we find with Ethernet the Wi-Fi designations actually refer to the draft versions of the IEEE 802.11 networking standard that dictates the parameters of the Wi-Fi protocol.

802.11b was the first version widely adopted by consumers. 802.11b devices operate at a maximum transmission of 11 Mbit/s but the speed is highly dependent on signal strength and quality—realistically users should expect 1-5 Mbit/s. Devices using 802.11b suffer from interference from baby monitors, bluetooth devices, cordless phones, and other 2.4GHz band devices.

802.11g was the next major consumer upgrade and boosted the max transmission to 54 Mbit/s (realistically about 22 Mbit/s accounting for error correction and signal strength). 802.11g suffers from the same kind of 2.4GHz band interference that 802.11b does.

802.11n is a significant upgrade to the Wi-Fi standards—devices use multiple-input multiple-output antennas (MIMO) to operate on both the 2.4GHz and relatively empty 5GHz bands. 802.11n has a theoretical maximum of 300 Mbit/s but accounting for error correction and less than ideal conditions you can expect speeds in 100-150 Mbit/s range.

802.11ac is a huge upgrade that brings wider channels (80 or 160 MHz versus 40 MHz), more spatial streams (up to eight) and things like beamforming, which sorta send the waves directly to your device instead of bouncing all around, making things much faster. How much faster? There are some models that can do one gigabit per second. It’s extremely fast.

Like Ethernet, Wi-Fi speeds are limited by the weakest link in the direct network. If you have an 802.11n capable Wi-Fi router but your netbook only has an 802.11g capable Wi-Fi module you will max out at the 802.11g speeds. In addition to the speed limitations there is a very pressing reason for abandoning the oldest popular Wi-Fi protocol 802.11b. You must use the same level of encryption on every device in your network and the encryption schemes available to 802.11b devices are weak and have been compromised (WEP encryption, for example, can be compromised in a matter of minutes by a moderately skilled child). Upgrading your Wi-Fi router and wireless equipment allows you to upgrade your wireless encryption as well as enjoy faster speeds. If you haven’t done anything to secure your router now would be a good time to readour guide to locking down your Wi-Fi network against intrusion.

Also like Ethernet, upgrading to the maximum speed—in this case 802.11n—is best suited for people moving large files and streaming HD video. Upgrading to 802.11n will have a negligible impact on your web browsing speed but will have an enormous impact on your ability to wirelessly stream HD content around your home.

At this point you’ve got a handle on how your home network needs to be laid out and you have an understanding of what the network speed designations mean and how they impact you and your network. It’s time to upgrade your switch, roll out some new Wi-Fi bandwidth, and enjoy a better optimized home network.

Retrieved from url

http://www.howtogeek.com/99001/htg-explains-routers-and-switches/

How to activate VoIP and back feed a house using the professional way

Manual for Installation of Voice over the Internet Protocol (VoIP)

Arris TM502G Phone/EMTA Modem.

Introduction

The following manual can be used to set up “VoIP” in each of the following system: ATT VoIP, Xfinity VoIP. Also, it could be used in any type of device that uses the technology (Voice over Internet Protocol) and has a phone line available. The installation requires a medium level of expertise and understanding of telephone wiring to complete this task.

Warning:

Failure to follow each of the steps; might result in an unsuccessful activation of your phone service. In the case of alarm set up, it could result in the creation of an isolation network where you alarm system is completely disconnected from the telephone network.

What is VoIP?

VOIP is an acronym of the phone service identified as “Voice over Internet Protocol”. (Communications technology for carrying voice telephone traffic over data network such as the Internet. VoIP uses the Internet Protocol (IP)-one half of the Transmission Control Protocol (TCP/IP), a global addressing system for sending and receiving packets of data over the Internet.

VoIP works by converting sound into a digital signal, which is then sent over a data network such as the Internet. The conversion is done by a device, such as a personal computer (PC) or special VoIP phone, that has a high-speed, or broadband, Internet connection. The digital signal is routed through the network to its destination, where a second VoIP device converts the signal back to sound. Because of the digital nature of VoIP, call quality is normally much higher than that of a standard telephone. Another advantage is that VoIP frequently costs less than standard telephone and long-distance service.) VoIP. (2014). In Encyclopaedia Britannica

What is EMTA?

EMTA is an acronym to the term “Embedded Multimedia Terminal Adapter”. This is a combination of cable modem and telephone adapter.

Glossary of Terms:

The following types of wires are currently found in old and new constructions and their proper identification is necessary to properly connect them:

Cat3: Heavily used in the 90’s for wiring homes and offices. As a result it is still present in old homes.

Cat5: Their usage commenced around the year 2000. It is the standard cable used in offices and homes.

Illustration of how to connect cat5 to cat3.

NID: Acronym for “Network Interface Device”. It is always located next to your power line meter equipment.

Scotch lock (use to connect and splice phone wires).

Network Interface Device (also referred to as EBM by technicians).

RJ11 Modular Single Port Surface Mount Jack.

List of required tools/equipment:

· EMTA (embedded multimedia terminal adapter) Modem with line1 for dial tone services

· 1 Box Cat-5e

· 1 3M scotch lock hand crimping tool with step jaws and long nose /crimping pliers

· 50 units Scotch lock “gel filled” 3 port connectors

· 1 Wire striper

· 1 Flat #1 screw driver

· 1 Phillip #1 screw driver

· 1 Professional scissors for wires

· Tone generator line tracer tester tone with amplifier probe kit

· But-set and a modular adapter

Fig 1 Homerun feed (preferred inside wiring (IW) phone network connection)

Instructions:

· Connect the EMTA to the signal and power up.

· Wait for all the light to be on, wait for line 1 to be on.

· Plug the but-set on line1 located behind the EMTA.

· Check and wait for the dial tone behind the EMTA or gateway

· Activate dial tone by calling the IVR 1-800 number.

· Check dial tone with your but set. (If no dial tone; continue to troubleshooting guide).

· Run test by calling in/out from the EMTA or gateway.

· If test went successfully continue with the following step below.

· Here you can have two different ways to finish the installation (simple telephone network installation: base phone set straight connect to the EMTA and its station base around the house) or (advanced network: following the procedure that will continue next).

· Run a cat5 wire from the room located the EMTA to the NID.

· If no phone jack present. Install an rj11 jack and connect the blue wire to the new jack.

· Connect the new jack to the EMTA using an RJ11 Modular Telephone cable.

· Go to the NID and disconnect the NID from external cable (ASW) to isolate the phone network only to the inside network. (Fig 3 y 4)

· Disconnect the ASW from the EBM and use the wire from the EBM (green /red) to connect to the cat5 (blue and white blue) refer to fig 6.

· Connect all jacks that you wish to activate to the EBM (EBM hold up to four lines) Fig 4. For more lines to be activated follow the tutorial of “how to splice and connect IW using schlock “refer to fig 5.

(Fig 5) Proper procedure of how to splice a jack to a single feed.

(Fig 2) Inside wires connected to the NID.

(Fig 3) ASW identification.

(Fig 4) ASW identification and proper cut.

(Fig 6) Identification of most common part inside the NID.

· Connect the test phone in each phone jack and check for dial tone.

· Run test by calling in/out for each phone number.

· While calling, listen for static, noise in the line, delay in the call, gap in the voice, dropping call, or ring too low or almost impossible to hear. (If one of these problem appear on the phone service. Refer to troubleshooting guide technician to aim for a better resolution).

(Problems of interference and attenuation

Two-wire copper circuits did not solve all the problems of long-distance telephony, however. As the number of lines grew, interference (or cross talk) from adjacent lines on the same crossarm of telephone pole became significant. It was found that transposing the wires by twisting them at specified intervals canceled the cross talk. ) telephone. (2014). In Encyclopaedia Britannica

If alarm is present. Follow next steps

Today’s technology makes it easy for a non-expert to do the installation. Leader Security Companies are now using GSM Modules that connect their systems to cellular antennas to communicate with cell towers over wireless networks such as our cellular phones. That makes it a very independent system capable of receiving updates, proper calibration and call for emergency services; this type of technology does not need a landline as it used to need in the past. Also, it has a very reliable connectivity that is worth of its price (fig 7). However, there are cases when the expert is needed to proper wired an old alarm system.

(Fig 7) GSM Module for Alarm System (it eliminates the need of a land-line requirements)

Old system alarm work with plain line telephone service and they need to receive a dial tone in order to communicate with the emergency system such as 911 or police department.

So, this is our job. Make sure the alarm system has dial tone after a successful VoIP installation. This job is normally done by an alarm technician who has previously run the cable and leaves everything connected and working. In the other hand after we take over from another phone provider, we as technicians have to guarantee that all services remain as we found them before our visit. Additionally, it is very important to know the compatibility of this alarm with our new phone service. And further questions are needed to properly proceed with our installation.

Instructions for Wiring an Alarm Panel with VoIP.

· Identify the wire that goes to the alarm panel by a tone/searching method. If no wiring existing or bad wire preexist. Follow the guide to proper wire the alarm panel.

· Create a back feed this way (send dial tone to the rj31x using the cat3 green/red wires or the cat5 blue/white blue wires).

· Connect to the tips 4 and 5 in the rj31x matching the picture below.

· Take the second pair of wires to return the dial tone back to the NID.

· Connect the following color black/yellow from the cat3 or orange/white orange from the cat5 to the tips 1 and 8 from the rj31x. Refer to fig 7, 8, and 11